Portland to Seattle Through the Backdoor

July 2022

Jul 3, 2022

We’re taking the “back door” route from Portland to Seattle. Today we rode east from Portland and rode along the Columbia river gorge, stopping at several waterfalls. Then we crossed at the Bridge of the Gods, and camped near Blue Lake.

46 miles, +2,930/-2,690ft elevation
Difficulty: 4/7

Jul 5, 2022

Today we rode east along the north side of the Columbia River, before turning north and climbing up, up, up 4,000 feet towards Mt. Adams. Finally, we got to our campsite and ate as much food as we could. Today was good practice for day 5.

40 miles, +4,070/-1,570ft elevation
Difficulty: 6/7

Jul 6, 2022

We rolled down into Trout Lake in the morning to get breakfast and resupply for the climb up Mt. Adams. The diner we stopped at was much appreciated for those of us who skipped breakfast. Since it’s near the PCT, the grocery store was well stocked with camp food and supplies. We then ascended the lower hills of Mt. Adams, toward Randle, stopping at a campsite by Takhlakh Lake. At this elevation, there were patches of snow on the ground, and the rain and mosquitoes made it an unpleasant evening. I went to bed early.

34 miles, +3,450/-2,020ft elevation
Difficulty: 5/7

Jul 7, 2022

After two brutal uphill days, today was a rest day to prepare for the ultimate climb tomorrow. In the morning we sped from 4,200 ft elevation down into the town of Randle, where we got lunch at a diner. We probably eat 3000-4000 calories in a day. Yesterday alone I went through ten snickers bars. After Randle, we moseyed along Highway 12 to Packwood, where we had a reservation at the Cowlitz River Lodge. Tomorrow will be the hardest day.

50 miles, +1,340/-4,730ft elevation
Difficulty: 2/7

Jul 8, 2022

Today our plan was to climb up 3,000 feet to Cougar Rock Campground on Mt. Rainier, drop off our packs, and continue up to the view at Paradise. On our way up to the campsite, we started up a steep gravel road for about a mile before a gate blocked our way. A forest service person said this road was for employees only, and we would have to turn back and go around, past Ashford, to Paradise, which would add 20 miles to an already intense day. We decided to climb as far as Cougar Rock to camp, and climb to Paradise in the morning. Cougar Rock was the best campsite so far, and we passed the time trying to burn a log in half.

38 miles, +3,100/-1,170 elevation
Difficulty: 7/7?

Jul 9, 2022

This morning we got up and climbed 2,000 feet over ten miles to Paradise on unladen bikes. Despite the lightness, this was the hardest climb we’ve done yet (except maybe south of Mt Adams in day 2). We stopped often to catch our breath and take in the beautiful views. Finally we reached Paradise. We hung around for a little bit, and then descended back to camp—it took me about 20 minutes to get back. Joseph got a flat just as we started back, and had to hitch a ride with someone.

Once we were packed up, we flew down Mt. Rainier and got lunch near Ashford. Then it was rolling hills past Elbe and on to Eatonville. The roads near Eatonville were fine, but the drivers were the least cautious of cyclists I’ve seen. They would pass us fast and close with oncoming traffic, and at one point a large truck forced us into the gravel beside the road. Eventually I decided to take the whole lane and force everyone behind us to wait, since they apparently couldn’t pass safely.

Past Eatonville, we found a place to camp in a swampy field off the road near Electron. We didn’t make a fire to keep a low profile, and plan to leave at dawn tomorrow for the final stretch home to Seattle.

70 miles, +3,000/-6,000ft
Difficulty: 1/7?

Jul 10, 2022

This morning we woke up at 5:30 and got on the road early to avoid any trouble with squatting. The morning was wet and cold! The first hour of riding was pretty miserable until the sun finally came up over the trees. We got breakfast in Orting, and then began the long, 45 mile trek back to Seattle. Most of it was along the Interurban Trail, which is straight and boring. Joseph split off at Tukwila, where he lives, and Ranjan decided to take the Light Rail from Rainier Beach for the final leg. Tony and I rode the rest of the way along Lake Washington Blvd and crawled up Capitol Hill. It was a little surreal knowing where we were after traveling for so long. On my way home, I got some burgers and a milkshake from Dick’s.

55 miles, +850/-1,150ft elevation
Difficulty: 3/7